Shiitake Mushroom
All-American Pot Roast
The thinner the slice of meat, the more tender the pot roast will be. Ask your butcher to slice it less than two inches thick. Also, go for a better-quality meat for a more tender result, but be aware that it is easy to end up with tough meat if it’s left in the oven too long. For rarer meat, cut the vegetables into smaller cubes (1/2 to 1 inch) and remove the pot from the oven at the first whiff of the robust aroma of a fully cooked meal. To speed up your prep time, use frozen green beans and peeled baby carrots. I never peel my potatoes because so much nutrition is in the skin. Just be sure to scrub them well and dig out the eyes. I also think wild mushrooms add a wonderful depth to the meat. Try morels, chanterelles, or shiitakes. My aunt swears by kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper with beef. Consider both, but remember that kosher salt is more intense, so you may want to use less than you normally do.
Scallops and Sweet Potatoes
The sweet potatoes soften in the broth to emerge creamy and bursting with flavor. Even though this exciting meal doesn’t contain chile peppers, ginger adds considerable zing. Be careful not to overdo the black pepper as it will intensify during cooking. Chanterelle or hedgehog wild mushrooms heighten the flavor in this dish, but shiitake or button mushrooms will taste good in a pinch. To make julienne sticks, cut the potato into thin disks. Stack the disks and cut into thin sticks lengthwise.
Soy-Miso Fish
One of my friends once owned a place that served delectable organic small plates in a funky part of town. I had a melt-in-your-mouth soy-miso monkfish that was just to die for. I’ve tried to re-create the experience here. Because monkfish can be hard to find, I use flounder to make this at home, but feel free to use sole, tilapia, salmon, or any fish. For that matter, this would be delicious with chicken or pork tenderloin as well. To make the dish spicier, double or triple the amount of black bean sauce. You can usually find black bean and garlic sauce in the Asian section of the grocery store.
Wild Mushroom Ragù
When I was working in Tuscany during porcini season I always wanted to go foraging for mushrooms, but the Italians are so secretive about where they find their prized porcini that I could never convince anyone to take me with them. So, while I never got to go hunting for fresh porcini, I did learn how to use dried ones to make this gorgeous sauce. If you’ve never used them before, dried porcini are a fantastic way to add a huge bump of mushroomy goodness to almost anything. And, because you have to soak them first, you get the added benefit of the fastest, most flavorful vegetarian stock ever; one that you can then add to your sauce to give it an even richer, earthier boost of flavor—just like I do here.
Shiitake-Wine Sauce
This intense wine sauce is delicious and pours lusciously. I think up excuses to serve this as often as I can, on chicken (page 83), filet mignon (page 108), or steak. This is the one sauce that I really love to eat in abundance, so this recipe makes a generous amount—spoon a little on top of each serving and pass the rest at the table.
Chicken with Caramelized Shallots and Shiitake-Wine Sauce
This is a perfect autumn dish, full of rich flavor and deep color. Be sure to really press down on the chicken when you add it to the pan to help the shallots and green onions stick to the skin and form a sort of caramelized onion crust. I prefer dark meat because it is generally juicier and more flavorful, but this method works very well with both dark and light meat.
Shiitake Mushroom and Caramelized Onion Pizza with Gruyère
What you put on your pizza is just as important as how much. It’s about quality, not quantity. Don’t go crazy and overload pizza with a jumble of toppings. Think about balance and a few well-chosen ingredients that work together. The Caponata (page 70) and the sugo (page 111) are delicious spread on pizza with a few cubes of mozzarella, for example. Here earthy mushrooms matched with fragrant thyme and sweet caramelized onions pack this rustic pizza with major punch. Gruyère’s robust and savory flavor profile knocks this no-sauce pizza off the charts. When it comes to pizza, this one delivers.
Mushroom-Crusted Beef Tenderloin
The beef tenderloin is a major muscle that hangs between the shoulder blade and the hip under the rib cage. Because the tenderloin does very little work, it is the tenderest part of the cow. Weighing an average of six to eight pounds, the muscle is commonly cut into steak fillets, left whole, or cut into tenderloin roasts. No matter how it is prepared, it is considered a succulent deluxe cut, suitable for special occasions and celebrations. Two things need to be done prior to cooking a whole tenderloin. First, the silver membrane, also called silver skin, that covers a portion of the outside of the tenderloin needs to be removed with a sharp knife. Second, to ensure even cooking, the thin tapered tail end of the tenderloin should be folded back on itself and tied with cooking twine to create a long roast of equal thickness throughout. Although a very tender muscle, the tenderloin does not have the flavor depth of many other beef cuts. Too often people obscure its mild flavor with heavy rubs or marinades. Here a mushroom crust amplifies the flavor of the beef without compromising its natural flavors. With such a tender cut and the added flavor depth of the mushrooms, overcooking is the only way you can ruin this dish.
Mushroom Miso Soup
Broccoli and mushrooms make this miso soup a little bit unusual and a meal in itself. (See photo)
Wild Mushroom–Cheddar Burger
During my travels for the old Food Network show Food Nation, I had the opportunity to go foraging for mushrooms with an expert while in Washington State. I can’t think of mushrooms without remembering that trip. Now I do NOT recommend hunting for your own mushrooms—let’s leave that to the experts—but I do recommend using a variety of what your supermarket has to offer. They may not be technically “wild,” but a blend from your market will still be delicious and, more important, not deadly! I think that any cheddar would pair well with the mushrooms, but if you can find a sharp Tillamook cheddar from Oregon, it would be all the better.
Adzuki Beans and Rice
Asian adzuki beans and fresh mushrooms contrast nicely with aromatic vegetables, thyme, and cumin in this updated version of a classic dish.
Chicken Cacciatore
The caccia in cacciatore means “hunt,” so I guess this is chicken hunter’s-style. Somewhere along the line—probably on its trip from Italy to America—the hunter’s pheasant or guinea hen in this dish was replaced by chicken. If you don’t want to cut up a whole chicken, you can buy pieces—get all legs and thighs, if that’s what you like; they are very good in this dish. It can be made using only chicken breasts, if that’s your preference, but to keep the chicken from drying out, you should cut the cooking time in half, and reduce the wine to 1/4 cup and the tomatoes to 3 cups. Best of all, though, is to make this dish with an older hen. In that case, increase the cooking time by 20 minutes, adding more water or stock as needed to keep the hen pieces covered as they cook. When you cut up chicken, or anything for that matter, your knife should glide along. If you’re struggling, stop for a second and take a look at what you’re cutting; you should be cutting between the bones at the joints, not actually cutting through the bones. If you’re off target, just wiggle the blade of the knife to get a feel for where the joint is, then make another cut. With practice, you’ll get a sense for where the joints lie.
Beef “Stew-Fry” with Shiitake Mushrooms and Bok Choy
This is called a “stew-fry” because both cooking techniques are employed. There’s a little bit of stir-frying, and the flavor profile is decidedly Asian, but enough liquid is added in the form of low-fat chicken broth that not a lot of oil is required, keeping things nice and light.
Tuna Tartare with Ginger and Shiitake Mushrooms
I’m a huge fan of raw tuna. The trick is to get high-quality tuna—called “sushi grade.” If you don’t want to eat raw tuna, you can sear it whole in a hot pan until it’s cooked to your liking, then slice and serve it with the sauce and the mushroom salad. Textured vegetable protein can be found in the health-food aisle of most major supermarkets.