Monkfish

A 1980 charter signed by 11 restaurants (7 in Marseille) dictates what kinds of fish form the basis of an authentic local bouillabaisse. These are generally unavailable here, so we suggest using the freshest nonoily fish you can get, preferably three to five different kinds. As long as we were taking liberties, we also added lobster and used fennel fronds in place of pastis. And though the broth and croutons are usually served separately from the fish itself in Marseille, we enjoyed everything together. Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

Team the fish with steamed rice and sautéed spinach, and pour a Sauvignon Blanc.

It's interesting, sophisticated fare like this that keeps Roly's Bistro constantly crowded. Restaurateur Roly Saul and chef Colin O'Daly are Dublin fixtures.