Lemon Verbena

This refreshing, slightly sweet soda is one of several kinds that Erin O'Shea, sommelier at Clio, in Boston, pairs with chef Ken Oringer's exciting food as part of the restaurant's nonalcoholic drink program.

How do you improve on ripe summer berries and cream? Whip the cream with a sugar syrup that's been infused with lemon verbena, a fragrant herb available at many farmers' markets.

The citrus-scented sugar syrup will make more than enough for eight drinks. Use the extra for seconds, or save it for sweetening other citrus cocktails. Freshly ground nutmeg is more aromatic than the pre-ground spice. Buy whole nutmeg (often sold in jars in the supermarket spice section) and scrape against the finest holes on a box grater.

Teas are a wonderful way to use seasonal herbs, so experiment with your favorites. The measurements are flexible; depending on the freshness and strength of the herbs, you may need to add or subtract.

Lemon verbena is a perfumy herb with a strong lemon flavor and a lemon-lime aroma. Its shiny green leaves can be added to salads, chicken and fish dishes, and desserts, as well as tea. For this pound cake, if you can't find lemon verbena at your specialty produce market or nursery, use freshly grated lemon zest in its place.

Brining these pork chops keeps them plump and juicy, but if lemon verbena for the brine isn't readily available, you can leave it out. Its subtle flavor probably won't be missed, especially if you serve the chops with the distinctly lemony hoppin' John risotto.

These soft jellies, layered with tart passion-fruit and sweet blackberry purées, are a wonderful summer dessert. Unbelievably cool and delicious, they're well worth the extra time it takes to make them. Active time: 1 1/2hr Start to finish: 17hr (includes chilling)

(POTS DE CREME AU CITRON ET A LA VERVEINE) Often used to make herb tea and liqueurs in Provence, the fragrant herb lemon verbena gives a nice lift to these rich, silky lemon custards. Look for fresh lemon verbena at farmers' markets and nurseries; dried lemon verbena can be found at specialty foods stores.

The thing Hom likes most about this dessert is the contrast of the warm, sweet fruit and the cold, tangy crème fraîche. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 20 min

Slightly bruised or wrinkled stone fruit is ideal for making the infused syrup; peaches and nectarines work too.