Leg of Lamb

Start marinating the lamb one day before you plan to serve it.

Ask your butcher to bone and butterfly the leg of lamb. Begin marinating one day ahead.

Usually made of mashed potatoes, garlic and olive oil, skordalia is a thick sauce served with meats, fish, fritters or greens.

(Arrosto di Agnello alla Toscana) Roasted meats are simple by definition, and in Tuscany they are not just simple, but pure and filled with flavor, too. Lamb is one of the Tuscans' favorite meats to roast. The seasonings in this recipe reflect the Tuscan countryside, with its wild rosemary and the aroma of garlic in the air. Though garlic is ever-present in the cooking, it is generally used in moderation so that it doesn't overpower the other flavors.

Lard is the fat of choice on Majorca, but here we have substituted solid vegetable shortening in the crust, with equally delicious results. For a truly authentic version of this dish, use sobrasada, a sausage that tastes very much like Spanish chorizo but is much softer.

Roasting the lamb on a large oven or cake rack that's placed over the gratin dish allows its succulent juices to flavor the vegetables. This spring dish is one of my favorite recipes from Bistro Cooking (Workman, 1989), by Patricia Wells.

What is unusual about this recipe is the conspicuous absence of garlic and the addition of artichokes to the roasting pan. Christos Koukoutsis, from the small village of Doloi, was adamant about the garlic when he explained to me how to make his village's Easter specialty. Olive oil—lots of it—is essential.

Sautéed zucchini or spinach makes a delicious accompaniment. Serve with a dry red wine such as a Naoussa from Greece or a Zinfandel or Pinot Noir from California. Baklava from a local Middle Eastern market is the ideal after-dinner sweet.

The bread, the lamb and the charmoula--a spicy mix of red bell pepper, onion, cilantro and spices--combine beautifully in this bread from executive chef Rafih Benjelloun of Imperial Fez restaurant in Atlanta.

The lamb needs to marinate for a least eight hours, so start the recipe ahead of time. This menu is nice with light red wine, like Beaujolais. Purchase your favorite cookies and some top-notch ice cream to make home-made ice cream sandwiches; it's as easy as placing a scoop of ice cream onto a cookie and topping it with another cookie. Freeze the sandwiches until you're ready to indulge.