Lavender

(GLACES AUX TROIS PARFUMS) These lavender, honey-saffron and nougat ice creams show off true Provençal flavors.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 8 hr (includes steeping, chilling, and freezing)

We love the added flavor and texture the crust brings to this dessert, but if you're short on time, the crème caramel on its own is still delicious.

Lavender flowers are decidedly old-fashioned, as is this not-too-rich tea loaf. You can usually find the flowers in a health food store that sells herbs and spices in bulk. Wrap the cakes in cellophane, tie them with purple ribbon, and attach a yellow lemon-shaped tag to the package. Grinding the almonds in a food processor with a little of the sugar will keep them from turning into nut butter. Used blanched whole almonds or whole almonds with their natural brown skins, depending on the effect you want. Ground unblanched almonds give the cake a homey look, while blanched almonds are less noticeable, emphasizing the flecks of lavender.

As soon as the year's first leaves unfurl, many Parisians start planning their annual pilgrimage to the lavender fields of Provence. In this recipe, the lavender may be omitted if desired; however, its aroma and flavor embody a French spring. Do not use lavender flowers treated with essence for these roasted birds.

If the joy of frolicking in a field of flowers could be captured in a cookie, it would be these crackly, chewy lavender-lemon crinkle cookies.