Habanero Chile

Habaneros are wonderful citrus-infused chiles that come to us from Mexico. If you can’t find habaneros, substitute a couple of jalapeño peppers and a splash of orange juice. Habaneros are powerful and will sting badly if accidentally rubbed near the eyes, so always wear gloves when handling them. Serve with the Stuffed Poblano Chile Peppers (page 165).

For all you chile heads looking for a knockout, eyewatering, tongue-tingling sauce, here it is; you may never buy commercially made hot sauce again. But a word to the wise: proceed with caution—this is not meant for wusses. Made from habañeros, one of the fieriest chiles around, this serious sauce achieves the perfect balance between flavor and heat. It’s best to protect your hands with a pair of latex gloves to keep the oils off your skin. Carrot is the secret weapon here; it not only adds amazing orange color but also gives the sauce another layer of flavor, with subtle sweetness and body. Use this hot sauce in Fried “Buffalo Style” Rabbit (page 152) or to fire up Bloody Marys or mayo. This sauce will keep practically forever!

Texas is proud of its peaches. They're soft, juicy, floral, and sweet, and the best I've ever tasted. During the season, when you travel through lush Hill Country Texas towns such as Fredericksburg, or Central Texas towns such as Fairfield, you won't be able to go a mile without seeing a roadside stand or pickup truck filled with baskets of this cherished summertime treat. We also have a peach tree at my grandma's North Texas farm, and every July it delivers a bounty of peaches that she'll put up for later in the year. Pickling fruit is a common method of fruit preservation in Texas. Yes, there's vinegar involved, as with other types of pickles. But you also add enough sugar and warm spices to give the fruit a balance of both acidity and sweetness. If you've never tried pickled fruit, you'll be pleasantly surprised. Pickled peaches are perhaps my favorite fruit to preserve, as I love how the peaches' sweet juice combines with the piquant brine. Of course, I've added a bit of heat to my peaches, which is decidedly not traditional, but I find that the habanero's flowery notes go very well with the peaches' floral tones. These go well with a bowl of ice cream, on top of your morning oatmeal, with a freshly baked biscuit, or yes, simply eaten straight out of the jar.

The longer the tequila is infused with the chiles, the hotter it gets.

Enough to marinate 2 pounds of chicken (skin-on thighs, legs, or wings) or pork (chops, loin, or boneless shoulder)

Editor's note: Chef Roberto Santibañez, the chef/owner of Fonda in Brooklyn, New York shared this recipe as part of a festive taco party menu he created for Epicurious. He recommends serving this salsa with his <epi:recipelink id="364389">Carnitas or <epi:recipelink id="364409">Carne Adobada Tacos.</epi:recipelink></epi:recipelink> Pineapple's bright sweet-tart flavor becomes sweeter and more complex as the sugars caramelize on the grill or under the broiler. Like most fruit salsas, a high heat level—thank you, habaneros—keeps all that beautiful sweetness in check. This salsa brings to mind tacos al pastor—the amazing taqueria specialty of pork roasting on a vertical spit with a piece of pineapple on top, dripping its juices onto the charred meat—so I often serve it with roast pork or Carnitas, but it also goes great with grilled fish or shrimp. I thank my dear friend, the wonderful chef-instructor at the Culinary Institute of America, Sergio Remolina for inspiring this recipe. Cheers, Sergio!

All the vibrant, sun-drenched brilliance of the tropics is captured in this salsa that evolves in your mouth—first sweet, then hot. Luscious ripe pineapple is a perfect partner to the fiery, fragrant habanero chile. Not only is the habanero the hottest chile readily available fresh, when cut open it releases an intense perfume of ripe tropical fruits—mango, pineapple, citrus. As a finishing touch, a squeeze of fresh lime adds a pop of flavor and brightens the sometimes cloying sweetness of a really ripe pineapple. This salsa pairs well with dishes that are tropical in origin or spirit, that have bright, fresh flavors, or that have been simply marinated or grilled, whether fish or meat. It’s delicious with almost all fish and seafood tacos and grilled chicken dishes. If you cannot find fresh habaneros, substitute one tablespoon of a fruity hot or extra-hot habanero sauce with a mango base (Melinda’s makes a good one) for the habanero chile.

Sweet oranges help tame the heat of the habanero in this zippy salsa, which would also be delicious alongside grilled pork loin.

If black cod isn't available, a firm white fish, such as halibut or barramundi, would also work well.

Soundtrack: "Hot Lava" by Kudu from Death of the Party This is my attempt to replicate the oh-so-slammin' hot sauce at the Senegalese restaurant Joloff, my favorite eatery in New York City. This version is only slightly hot, but if you really want that fire add one more habanero chile.