Crimini Mushroom

You'll need metal turkey-lacing pins (sold at supermarkets) to secure the roulade. Because they grow up to be portobellos, crimini are sometimes labled baby bellas. They are often sold in 6-to 8-ounce containers.

This gravy makes a nice accompaniment to the broiled polenta sticks and the roasted squash and mushrooms , as well as the <epi:recipelink id="230982">sautéed Broccolini.</epi:recipelink>

A mixture of mushrooms gives these Mexican tamales a rich, almost meaty flavor.

Of all the rich and succulent winter squash varieties, delicata, with its long and uniformly narrow shape, is the easiest to work with. And its thin, pale-golden skin with green striations is more than just pretty — it's edible, too.

Charles Alfonso of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, writes: "One of my favorite local restaurants is Dish Osteria and Bar, a place I discovered a few months ago. The food is so good that I go back nearly every weekend. The best dish I've had so far is the duck with polenta and lingonberry sauce." The restaurant serves the duck with a side of rapini sautéed in garlic and olive oil.

This easy pâté can be made three days ahead.

Chef Suzanne Goin prepares this dish with Taylor Bay Scallops in the shell, but it's also delicious with regular bay scallops, which are more widely available. Be sure to use a good amontillado, the medium-dry Sherry that is lightly aged to give it a mellow, nutty flavor. What to drink: Condrieu, an aromatic Rhône white made with Viognier grapes.

For more information about forming tortellini, see Wrapped Around Your Little Finger. Active time: 3 hr Start to finish: 3 1/2 hr

Portobello and button mushrooms, along with herbs and garlic, enhance a creamy dish-which has no cream.

A radicchio and fennel salad with red wine vinaigrette adds color and crunch, and warm focaccia rounds out the entrée. End the meal with poached pears and biscotti.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Mark Taylor of West Hartford, Connecticut, writes: "I started cooking out of necessity when I first graduated from college, since I couldn't afford to eat out. Having grown up watching my mother cook for our large family, I used her recipes. She was always trying new dishes whenever we had guests and sharing her adventurous attitude toward eating. These days, even though my wife and I both work, we still cook several times a week. Now I tend to rely on recipes I've picked up from restaurants and friends. I enjoy experimenting with different ingredients and figuring out new ways to improve a recipe, as I've done with the one here."

Pennsylvania is now a national center for cultivated exotic or "specialty" mushrooms like shiitake and crimini, but early colonists found plenty of familiar wild mushrooms growing free for the picking in the forests of their new world. The tradition finds expression in this mushroom-lover's dressing, which blends both wild and cultivated fungi for maximum flavor.

A soy-sake marinade is the base for a delicious reduction sauce. For convenience, begin this one day ahead and refrigerate the steak in its marinade overnight.

At the Perryville Inn chef Paul Ingenito uses the succulent bits of meat from lobster knuckles in a bread pudding, which he bakes and serves in empty lobster tail shells as an adjunct to a whole lobster. We thought the pudding was stunning enough to stand on its own and so adapted the recipe, using the meat of a whole lobster for the pudding and the shells and body for the sauce.