Cornmeal

We’ve come to love Old Bay seasoning for its aromatic flavor. (See photo)

This polenta, chock-full of earthy spinach, contrasts beautifully in both flavor and color with the sweet-tart tomatoes. (See photo)

Embellishing a recipe as iconic as corn bread could be a disaster of New Coke magnitude, so when a friend suggested dolling up the recipe with jalapeños and cheddar cheese, I proceeded with caution. I have issues with vegan cheese—it’s often overprocessed, packed with preservatives, and usually gross—but Emily, my office Queen Bee and resident persnickety vegan, suggested Follow Your Heart’s cheddar and made me a convert. I found nary a gluten globule or preservative in sight, and it melted! My mind adequately blown, I got to work in the kitchen, and a new bakery regular emerged. The cheese has the perfect creamy texture to complement the corn bread’s slightly grainy quality, and its sweetness is offset by the heat of the jalapeños. Bring this along to your next barbecue, but be sure to make extra: Those non-vegan eat-everything sorts tend to devour an unfair share.

Some recipes at the bakery were brought forth by inspiration, others by customer demand. The lobbying for corn bread began the very first day of business, with a customer spying an unfrosted vanilla cupcake and ordering “one of those corn muffins.” Rather than fight the will of the people, I dived right into development mode, and after a year of sorry results, finally perfected the recipe. I hope you’ll agree it was well worth the effort.

If you are unfamiliar with johnnycakes, thank me now: Your life is about to change forever. (All you others, pat yourselves on the back and grab a cookie sheet.) Part corn-bread pancake, part biscuit, this New England breakfast staple stepped in to fill the void left when my pancake addiction was cut short by gluten sensitivities. I drown mine in agave nectar, but no matter how you treat them, plan on sharing. You only rarely find these at BabyCakes NYC because they absolutely must be served warm. Although I bake them on a cookie sheet, you can spoon them onto a well-greased griddle for a crisper—though more caloric—cake.

To many, ginger is synonymous with either the flabby pink shavings plopped beside a sushi roll or the too-sweet soda you were given on your sickbed. For years, I snubbed the root on those grounds, but after opening the bakery, I quickly found I was in the minority. Here’s the thing you need to remember about baking with ginger: It needs a sidekick, or even two. For me, a subtle peach, baked to sweet surrender, is the ideal complement to ginger’s perfumy heat. For this recipe, corn bread is the naturally sweet and grainy foundation.

Pineapple has a balance of sugar and acid that I really like. I wanted to capture that sweet-tart flavor in an upside-down cake, but in a refined one. So I’ve made a batter with cornmeal that gives the cake a great foundation and a terrific crumb.

Biscotti means “twice baked,” a cooking method that results in the firm, crunchy cookies that have recently become wildly popular here in America. These cookies were eaten by sailors back in Columbus’s day because they last for a long time without going bad. They’re great for dunking in coffee or tea, which is how my mom, nonna, and I would eat them when I was growing up. The citrus zests provide an extra little zing, and really evoke the tastes of Italy. If you want, you could use just orange or lemon; it doesn’t have to be both.

Il Fornaio bakery in Los Angeles made a recipe for almond cake that I fell in love with many years ago. I’ve changed their recipe a bit to create a different texture, but the pronounced almond flavor remains the same. It’s very important to cream the butter and almond paste until it becomes thoroughly smooth.

This is the most basic, fundamental version of polenta. It’s the perfect side to accompany a delicious, long-simmered stew. Or you can serve this basic recipe topped with your favorite sauce; I’m partial to bolognese.

Imagine the best corn muffin you’ve ever tasted, but richer and sweeter. The rosemary adds a subtle flavor and aroma that is reminiscent of the holidays. It’s equally nice with a cup of tea or a glass of dessert wine. Balsamic syrup is mellow and intense with an almost chocolatey flavor that complements the rosemary.

This easy, no-mess weeknight dish simply requires spreading a bit of mustard over catfish fillets, sprinkling them lightly with a garlicky paprika-cornmeal mixture, and popping them in the oven.

Pat: What suits a lazy, stay in your pajamas kind of morning more than a stack of buttermilk pancakes topped with butter and a drizzle of spicy maple syrup? (Ours is infused with a fresh vanilla bean.) Aren’t mornings grand? Cornmeal gives these pancakes a toothsome appeal. If you want flavored pancakes, feel free to add a sprinkling of sliced bananas or peaches, shredded coconut, mini–chocolate chips, chopped toasted nuts, or granola to the batter. (You’ll want to add nuts and granola to the pancakes after they have been poured onto the griddle—otherwise they will lose their crunch.

Pat: This is our take on a po’ boy, one of the defining sandwiches of the South. We take a hot, crispy cornmeal crusted catfish fillet and slather it with a piquant (easy to make) sweet pickle mayo, then toss some tart pickles, seasoned tomatoes, and shredded lettuce onto a hoagie roll. This is a meal that’s more than a sandwich—it’s a masterpiece!

Pat: A cast iron skillet is, far and away, the best pan for cooking this cornbread. In fact, we don’t prepare it in anything else. Preheating the skillet in the oven creates a crispy golden crust, and it really seems to help the batter pop up and rise beautifully during the baking process. We serve the warm cornbread straight from the skillet with a big ole wooden spoon.

If you don’t have a pastry bag, you can still enjoy these delicious and crunchy cookies in their traditional shape: Chill the cookie dough for about 1 hour, then divide it into fourths. Roll each piece out with the palms of your hands to a rope about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the rope into 4-inch lengths and lay them on the prepared baking sheets, shaping them into crescents and leaving about 3/4 inch between them. Lightly drag the tines of a fork over the crescents to create ridges. Bake and cool them as described below