Cod

This bouillabaisse-style chowder has a delicate broth and whole fish fillets.

The cod here is basically pan-roasted. If you want to increase the recipe, simply roast two one-pound pieces. To serve, cut the cod in half with a very sharp knife that will go through the bacon and the cod. Serve this with a lovely, buttery Chardonnay.

Roasted fries complete this quick take on fish and chips.

Bacalao (salt cod) has been popular in Spain for centuries, especially among the Basques (they brought it back from whaling voyages to northern Europe) and the Catalans (the southern French shared it with them). Although Spain is surrounded by water, in days gone by fresh fish never made it to the interior and sometimes wasn't available - or any good - on the coasts. So, in this strict Catholic country where meat and poultry were not allowed on Fridays, or during Lent, Bacalao became an integral part of the staple diet. Bradade - salt cod pureed with potatoes, olive oil and sometimes milk - is a specialty of France's Provence area that has made its way into the Catalan culinary repertoire as Brandada. If you've never tried salt cod, this is a good initiation. Start soaking the dried fish a day ahead.

A make-ahead smoked salmon butter and some fresh cod dress up clam chowder beautifully for company. Team the stew with a favorite coleslaw and warm buttermilk biscuits for a cozy winter meal.

Legend has it that a certain turn-of-the-century Boston restaurateur used to serve whatever tender, white-fleshed fish he could find at the market under a catchall name he invented: "scrod." (That way, he never had to update his menus.) The term, peculiar to New England, is now applied to young cod and haddock. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Serve with: Pickled beets and baby potatoes sprinkled with parsley. Dessert: Lemon bars from the bakery.

This bright and sophisticated dish is offered at Gresslin's in London, England.

Black cod is steeped in sweet miso before being baked in the oven. The sweetness of Nobu-style Saikyo Miso is an excellent match with the plumpness of the fish.

Serve with rice or boiled new potatoes.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This entrée from Anzu restaurant in Dallas partners Japanese miso and sake with Italian balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

The mushroom and herb topping is similar in texture to bread stuffing. After baking, the fish has a moist center and a delicately crisp top. Partner it with a chilled Viognier.