Cherry

This recipe makes 3 peach and 3 cherry crisps. The ice cream is made by mixing cinnamon into store-bought vanilla ice cream and refreezing it. We call for fresh cherries, but frozen ones will work just as well; you’ll need to adjust amounts in step 3: Reduce the brown sugar to 1/3 cup and increase the cornstarch to 2 tablespoons.

In so many American childhoods, cherry pie is a gloppy, cloying, Day-Glo affair. As a chef, I’m expected to disdain such things now, and, officially, I do. But I’ve always loved cherries. This Italian cherry and almond tart is everything a bad cherry pie is not: flaky, buttery, and sophisticated, with a filling the color of darkest rubies. But if someday, when cherries are long out of season, you happen to see in a corner booth at DuPar’s Coffee Shop someone who looks like me, wolfing down a slice of all-American diner pie, wearing dark sunglasses and a stain that looks suspiciously like Red Dye #40, well, keep it to yourself. Even chefs have fond memories of their misguided youth.

Julie Robles, one of the first cooks at Lucques and later the chef de cuisine at A.O.C., came up with this delicious savory (as opposed to sweet) cherry compote. This time of year I go crazy for cherries and also serve this compote on roast pork or with an assertive cheese like Taleggio.

Like a lamb shoulder or veal shank, duck legs require a long, slow braise (in fat in this case, rather than stock) to break down their sinew and make them succulent and tender. Choose an earthenware dish or a roasting pan that will hold the legs snugly (the legs should just fit in the dish, without overlapping). Four cups of duck fat sounds like a lot, but don’t worry, most of it is left behind in the pan, and you can use it over and over again, as long as it’s strained well and kept chilled or frozen. You can also store the duck legs in the fat.

This cocktail was first made on a Tuesday with the namesake song from the Rolling Stones playing in the background. When the drink was strained into a cocktail glass and its vibrant ruby beauty came to life, we said in unison, “Ruby Tuesday.” This cocktail combines 101-proof straight rye whiskey, Benedictine, fresh black cherry purée, fresh lemon juice, and simple syrup. Rye whiskey is the native spirit of the northern United States, where rye grains grow in abundance. The spirit was traditionally matured in new American oak barrels and bottled at least 50 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) or 100-proof. Its raw nature, combined with slightly sweet overtones and the herbal infusion of Benedictine, give this cocktail a beautiful long, lingering finish. It is a perfect representative of such classy whiskey cocktails as the Frisco Sour.

In this simple dessert, fresh fruit is the star. Lemon juice brings out the sweetness of summer cherries and berries. Any red berries work here—fresh red currants, black currants, and gooseberries are great options, too.

Cherries and mustard may sound like an unusual pairing, but they taste great together. Sweet, tart, and hot, this sauce goes well with chicken and veal as well as pork.

Since the majority of sour cherry patches are in Michigan, Utah, and Washington State, depending on where you live, you may be unaware of these ruby-red delicacies. It’s worth hunting them down—just be aware that they are very perishable and should be frozen immediately or put straight to use in this scrumptious pie. For a little bit of added texture, I like to use this walnut crunch topping, infused with a bit of orange zest for that extra zing.

Our customers look forward to this pie just as much as they look forward to fireworks on the Fourth of July—the perfect holiday for indulging in this pie because late June to early August is when cherries tend to be at their most flavorful. Although this recipe calls for Bing cherries, which are easiest to find, you can substitute whatever is available in your area. A little more prep time is required here than for other fruit pies because of the pitting process, but it’s well worth the effort. This recipe uses a lattice-style top crust, but you can also use a traditionally placed top crust if you prefer. You can also try this pie with Cinnamon Sugar Crumb Topping (page 12).

In traditional upside-down cake recipes, the fruit is first caramelized in a skillet. In our simplified version, the butter and sugar are creamed and spread into the cake pan; then the fruit is layered over the mixture and topped with cake batter.

We like this pie a little on the tart side; if you prefer a sweeter taste, increase the granulated sugar to 3/4 cup. To keep the dough from getting soggy, fill the pie shell just before you’re ready to cover with top crust.

This pie can be made with any berry or stone fruit, although we prefer sour cherries, peaches, or blueberries. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, use two pounds of frozen pitted cherries instead; defrost and drain well before using.

This tart can be made with store-bought or homemade puff pastry. If using store-bought, you will need one 17 1/4-ounce package, which includes two sheets; divide the filling and the cherries in half, and bake two galettes instead of one.

Adjust the amount of granulated sugar you use in the filling according to how sweet you want the cobbler to be. If you cannot find fresh sour cherries, substitute 2 1/4 pounds pitted frozen sour cherries; thaw and drain before using. We baked ours in a fluted eighteen-by-twelve-inch dish, but any 1 1/2-quart baking dish will do—just adjust the length of the lattice strips to fit the dish.