Southern

Raleigh, the capital of North Carolina, serves as the state’s east-west dividing point in Carolina barbecue. To the east of the city, whole hog is the meat of choice and simple Eastern Carolina–style vinegar sauce is the preferred slather. West of Raleigh is the land of the pork shoulder, and the “sauce” is referred to as a “dip.” Most Western Carolina dips can be characterized as a vinegar/ketchup–based sauce. Dips can be used as a baste mop, a finishing slather, or a post-cooking soak for the meat.

To barbecue aficionados it is clear that Big Bob Gibson was directly influenced by the conventions of Eastern North Carolina–style barbecue. The connection can’t be made through the family tree, but the ingredients in his vinegar-based sop make it obvious. The only difference is that Big Bob didn’t share North Carolinians’ affinity for apple cider vinegar, preferring distilled colored vinegar instead. This straightforward concoction has been mopped onto the restaurant’s pork shoulders since the very beginning. I am pleased to reveal that this four-ingredient “secret sauce” is Big Bob’s original recipe; maybe now the sauce bottles on the restaurant tables will stop disappearing.

I think it’s safe to assume that the history of barbecue in North Carolina traveled from east to west. If you have any doubt, you only need to look at the ingredient difference between the two styles of sauce. In the East a barbecue sauce can be as simple as vinegar, salt, and pepper. Western North Carolina compounds the East’s flavors with a variety of extra ingredients including ketchup, a generous amount of brown sugar, and sometimes Worcestershire sauce (See page 224). Eastern Carolina barbecue has generally consisted of cooking whole hogs, but it is the vinegar sauce that adds an element of uniqueness to its barbecue. The sauce will add an increased level of moisture to the chopped meat while enhancing its flavor with a distinct cider-vinegar tang.

Memphis-Style Championship Red Sauce is very similar to our award-winning Big Bob Gibson Championship Red Sauce, which is available at retail outlets, with one key difference: In competition I often add extra sweetener to the sauce to give our barbecue a glossy, sweet glaze. If you prefer a less sweet sauce, reduce the honey and molasses by two tablespoons each.

Superstition across the southeastern United States holds that eating hog jowls, collard greens, and black-eyed peas on New Year’s Day will make a person healthy, wealthy, and wise. Hog jowl, which is the cheek of a pig, is a flavorful and fatty meat that is usually cured or smoked. Hard to believe a food as rich and fat-laden as hog jowl is linked to health and prosperity. These meager foods have always been a symbol of plenty for people who are often very poor. The “good-luck” traditions of black-eyed peas in the Southern United States date back to the Civil War, when Union troops ravaged Southern lands, destroying crops and taking all livestock. All that was left were black-eyed peas, which were considered to be fodder for horses and other animals; as a result, many Southerners subsisted on this protein-rich and hearty legume.

Over the years the rib recipe at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q has changed many times, running the gamut from full-size spare ribs to today’s meaty St. Louis–cut spare ribs. The seasoning and the sauce have evolved as well, moving from salt and pepper to a complex seasoning blend and a finishing touch of our own championship red sauce. Spare ribs are cut from the lower portion of the rib cage below the back ribs, including a portion of the breast bone. The bones of the spare rib vary in size and length, ranging from short and round to long and flat, and they have less curvature than baby back ribs. The meat contains a high percentage of fat and thus yields a tender finished product. The term “St. Louis cut” is used when the breast bone and cartilage are cut from a spare rib, leaving a slab of ribs with a more uniform size and shape. The breast bone can be used for stock, and the leftover meat and cartilage can be seasoned and cooked for rib tips. A full-size spare rib can be trimmed easily at home, or your local butcher can trim the rib and give you the bonus cuttings. The recipe that follows is as close to what we use at the restaurant as I can give without being disowned by the family. I think you will recognize the similarities—and perhaps even like it better!

It is impossible to discuss Memphis barbecue without talking about ribs. Where in most places the rib-loving factions are divided between those who prefer baby backs to spareribs (or vice versa), in Memphis the two different camps are partisans of either dry or wet preparations. Wet ribs are daubed with sauce before serving. Dry ribs can have either a dry rub added prior to cooking or a seasoning blend applied after cooking. Either way, no tomato-based sauce touches a dry rib from Memphis.

The great Georgia humorist Roy Blount Jr. once joked, “Brunswick stew is what happens when small mammals carrying ears of corn fall into barbecue pits.” The origin of this thick stewed concoction is debatable, but most trace it back to 1828 in Brunswick, Georgia. Brunswick stew is a thick vegetable stew with shredded meat that is cooked over low heat in a large pot. Traditionally, it was made from squirrel or sometimes rabbit, and it has always been a popular way for hunters to make a complete meal from their wild game. Today, Brunswick stew is popular across the Southeast, although the squirrel and rabbit are generally replaced with pork, chicken, and beef. The vegetables might include corn, onions, tomatoes, beans, squash, or okra. Often it is the feast for large gatherings, festivals, and fund-raisers.

One of the only places in the world where you can enjoy fresh, chopped whole pig straight from the barbecue cooker is in North Carolina. The tradition of cooking whole hog directly over hickory or oak wood that has been reduced to coals and then soaking the chopped meat with a vinegar-based sauce is one that has been enjoyed since the birth of American-style barbecue. The first time I experienced this exquisite taste, it was in the North Carolina countryside at a roadside shanty they called a restaurant. The rhythmic beat of the meat cleavers pounding the butcher block echoed through the rafters, and vibrations from the tin roof added harmony to this musical cadence. I stood shoulder-to-shoulder with locals waiting for a table to clear before being handed my greatly anticipated lunch. I watched moist chunks of hand-chopped pig fall from my overstuffed sandwich as I thanked God for North Carolina. Make this in your own backyard and you’ll be giving thanks as well.

Although Memphis itself is not noted for whole-pig barbecue, if you ever attend the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, you will be able to get a taste. At this annual event there are three professional meat categories: whole hog, pork shoulder, and pork ribs. It is, after all, billed as “The Super Bowl of Swine.” Over the years, the flavor profile of the winning pigs at Memphis has changed, with the sweet and fruity flavors overtaking the vinegar-based flavors of traditional North Carolina pigs. No one has proved this better than Myron Mixon of the Jack’s Old South cooking team, whose peach-wood–smoked pig, layered with flavors from a sweet fruity injection and sweet tomato based sauce, has consistently put him on the awards podium. Layering complementary flavors is the key to success on the competition circuit. This recipe features the same sweet, fruity, layered flavors that have historically brought home the bacon at the Memphis.

A brine is a great way to ensure a moist and juicy chicken—or any other type of meat. Brines are simply liquid marinades with a high salt content. All meat contains salt, and when it is submerged in a liquid with a higher salt content, the liquid is absorbed into the meat through a process called osmosis. The meat retains the moisture, helping to yield juicy results on the grill. The following sweet brine recipe works well on skinless chicken breasts. The liquid brine not only prevents the chicken from drying out but provides extra flavor. When the meat is combined with the tangy white sauce, it makes a fantastic addition to salads and quesadillas, and it tastes great on its own as an entrée.

This is one of the most popular menu items at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q and has been a staple in Decatur, Alabama, since Big Bob first started selling his ’Q in 1925. Most folks raised in North Alabama have firmly believed since childhood that barbecue sauce is white. Where did the rest of the country go wrong? The simple technique for cooking the chickens has not changed for more than eighty years, and the ingredients can be listed on one hand: salt, pepper, basting oil, and, of course, that creamy, tangy, peppery white sauce. An all-hickory fire on a closed brick pit is the only other necessity for duplicating the authentic Big Bob flavors. The type of oil used for basting has changed through the years. Big Bob used whatever oil was most easily available to baste the chickens as they cooked, including rendered lard. Excess fat was cut off the pork shoulders and heated in a pot until the lard liquefied. The rendered lard was stored in metal “lard buckets” until needed. No matter what type of oil is used, the chickens still taste fantastic.

Big Bob always had a standing policy at his restaurant that when you were on the clock you ate for free. Some companies give their staff stock options; Big Bob always gave his staff real Southern fixings. Many staples of the staff meals were not offered to the customers and it was not uncommon to walk into his restaurant and smell fried chicken, sweet potatoes, or catfish cooking. Thank God hickory smoke usually trumped any other aroma or Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q might have turned into Big Bob’s Southern Kitchen. While turnip greens have never graced the menu at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q, they were cooked almost as often as any side dish on the menu. Always made with the restaurant’s smoked slab bacon, this recipe showcases the simple delight of seasoned greens. Pair them with black-eyed peas, fried potatoes, and cornbread to taste a typical employee meal in Big Bob’s kitchen.

When it comes to side dishes, Big Bob felt keeping it simple was the way to go. Consequently you won’t find a long list of accompaniments to choose from on our menu, just potato salad, slaw, baked beans, and potato chips. His original vinegar-based coleslaw (see page 176), made from only four ingredients, was the only slaw that was ever used in the restaurant. In 2003, Martha Stewart wanted to feature some of our favorite Southern-style sides on her television show and requested both baked bean and slaw recipes. We happily sent her recipes for half the side dishes on our menu. The next day we learned the show preferred we give them a “customary” mustard-based slaw typical of the Memphis Barbecue Region. I’d never heard of such a slaw, but who can argue with Martha Stewart? Thus was Crisp Spicy Southern Mustard Coleslaw born. The recipe has since been served to raves at the James Beard Foundation in New York City and at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival.

When you have a craving for pulled pork but a whole shoulder is more meat than you need, the pork butt is your best option. The butt is not the rear end of a pig but the upper portion of the shoulder. This six- to eight-pound cut is usually well marbled and holds up well during long cooks. Most competition barbecue teams select the pork butt when going for the blue ribbon in the pork category because it has more marbling than the picnic portion of the shoulder and is more easily manageable on the grill than the entire shoulder. I created this recipe for a huge neighborhood block party in Birmingham, Alabama. There are only two things that go together better than a barbecue block party and Birmingham, and that is peaches and pork. If you are ever invited to a barbecue in Alabama, pack your overnight bag.

We’ve come to love Old Bay seasoning for its aromatic flavor. (See photo)

For a simple supper, we can’t imagine adding anything to this dish other than sliced tomatoes, zydeco music, and a little two-step.

The classic combination of chocolate cake, cherries, and cream found in the traditional Black Forest cake was our inspiration for this cream’wich. In the summertime, fresh cherries can be used in lieu of dried. As is true of all of our ice cream sandwiches, we advise that you make them at least a short while in advance of when you want to serve them. Otherwise, the ice cream tends to squeeze out the sides.

Louisiana, and in particular the city of New Orleans, is known for its amazing food. One technique that the local chefs there have mastered is blackening, a method by which a piece of chicken, fish, or steak is coated in a peppery crust and quickly cooked over very high heat to—well—blacken the exterior. The Louisiana burger applies this method to a burger. (If you don’t want to take it all the way to black, you can do something called “bronzing,” which follows the same principle as blackening but does so to a lesser degree of darkness.) Blackening is best done in a cast-iron pan. I based the condiment for this burger on the classic New Orleans rémoulade sauce; it incorporates so many of the things that I use on my burgers—such as mustard, hot sauce, mayonnaise, and pickles (sour cornichons, here)—into one delicious spread.

Just mention the Carolinas and I immediately think of pulled pork sandwiches, dripping with barbecue sauce and topped with creamy coleslaw. Take the pulled pork out of the equation, add the rest to a burger, and you’ve got the Carolina Burger. It’s all about finding a great home for those sweet, vinegary, and spicy flavors that go so well with coleslaw.