Southern

Why end a dinner party with a cup of coffee when you can end it with mud pie? This coffee ice cream–based pie with an infusion of espresso, highlighted with Fudgy Brownie chunks and a crunchy, sweet Oreo crust, is great at any time of the year. Be sure to eat a light meal so that you have plenty of room for this addictive ice cream dessert!

This creamy, sweet, tangy pie is a southern staple. In the shop, we use only fresh key limes (they’re an essential part of this masterpiece), which are imported from Mexico and Central America and are available year-round. Squeezing them does take some extra effort and determination, but it’s worth all the trouble when you’re rewarded with that first bite of fresh Key Lime Pie.

One of the greatest compliments I’ve received in my professional life thus far was being told that I “make pecan pie like a true Southerner.” In this chapter, you’ll find a few variations, but nice as it is to mix things up sometimes, there’s also much to be said for the clean taste and sweet flavor of traditional Pecan Pie. In addition to capping off holiday meals, it is also a great way to end a summer barbecue.

Think of this pie as Pumpkin Pie’s cousin. The creamy potato puree (best when made from locally grown sweet potatoes) makes for a dense, sweet pie. Like pumpkin pie, this southern staple has a deep, rich orange color that, topped with a dollop of Whipped Cream (page 193) or cinnamon ice cream, makes for a beautiful centerpiece to your holiday dessert table.

If you don’t have a cake ring, you can use a nine-inch springform pan instead; make sure the dough comes up 1 1/2 inches from the bottom of the pan.

Maple syrup holds a special place in the hearts of Southerners. In the village of Monterey, Virginia—known as “Little Switzerland”—the annual Maple Syrup Festival draws thousands of visitors. When gathering ingredients for this pie, it’s important to note that many maple-flavored syrups are just corn syrup with maple flavoring (a shocking revelation for me!). Read the label to make certain you’re getting 100 percent pure maple syrup. Grade B maple syrup is great for cooking; it has a deeper flavor and color than the Grade A amber syrup, although Grade A will work, too. Of course, maple syrup from Monterey will add a wonderful authentic note to this pie for people with a serious sweet tooth.

You know a pie recipe is old when several stories are told about its history. Some say the term chess pie goes back to an eighteenth-century English cheese pie. Another links the origins of the name to the Southern pie chest, or pie safe, a piece of furniture that holds kitchen confections. Another anecdote tells of a man who stopped to eat at a diner in Alabama. He loved the pie he was served, and when he asked what its name was, the waitress replied, “jes pie.” Whatever the truth may be, as food writer Stephanie Anderson Witmer says, “So many Southern pies, like the chess pies, are elegant in their simplicity. They use staple ingredients, but are divine.”

Aaron DiGrassie (Mrs. Rowe’s grandson) picked up this fabulous, off beat recipe when he worked at Ford’s Colony in Williamsburg, Virginia. Now a new father and the restaurant’s general manager, Aaron has come a long way since the day when he first started working in his grandmother’s restaurant business. At the age of ten, the ambitious boy made and sold pie boxes for 10 cents each.

Two sweet Southern favorites—pecans and fudge—come together in this extra-rich pie that bakes up like a big, soft brownie. Serve small slices topped with a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream, crème fraîche, or sour cream.

Mrs. Rowe’s family is still finding recipe treasures scattered throughout her boxes and notes. Aaron found this recipe on an index card buried in a box in the attic. It’s a sweet pie that tastes a lot like cookie dough.

Fresh watermelon is a summertime treat throughout the South, where the melons can be seen sprawled in many backyard gardens. These days, watermelon can be bought almost any time of year at most grocery stores. This pretty pink pie makes a spectacular offering at a special brunch.

Mrs. Rowe attributed this recipe to her friend Mrs. John Martin, a Mennonite from Harrisonburg. The custard is slightly grainy, which is normal for this old-fashioned pie, and its pleasant, refreshing flavor is unusual to the modern palate. For plumper raisins, bring them to a boil in a small amount of water, then lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain the raisins thoroughly before proceeding with the recipe.

There are never any leftovers of this flavorful pie at Mrs. Rowe’s Country Buffet. Because green tomatoes have such a short season, customers have many long months to look forward to this pie, with its robust spice and vinegar essences perfectly mingled with an underlying sweetness. The flavors unfold with every bite. Longtime regular customers know to get to the restaurant early enough to enjoy a slice. If the green tomato season slips by, try tomatillos instead. This pie also works as a side dish with pork chops or chicken.

This is the most popular dessert at Mrs. Rowe’s Restaurant and Bakery. Enough said.

Hickory nuts are only available in a few areas of the country, and the South is one of them. They’re usually sold in their shells, which are extremely thick and hard. But if you’re a hickory nut lover, this pie will inspire you to do the hard work of shelling them. If you can’t find hickory nuts, pecans are in the hickory family and make a great substitute. A shot of bourbon enhances the flavor—and makes it even more Southern. For a crisp bottom crust, parbake the shell before filling it. For a crunchy pie, go with the larger amount of nuts.

Mildred’s grandson Aaron DiGrassie learned to make this pie during his days of cooking at the Excelsior Hotel in Italy. With its sturdy texture and perfect amount of sweetness, this recipe seems like it could have come from any Southern granny’s recipe file.

Some say the hummingbird cake, a Southern specialty replete with pineapple chunks, bananas, coconut, and walnuts, earned its name because each otherworldly bite makes you hum with delight. Others hold that the cake is as sweet as the sugared water used to attract the tiny birds. Adorned with dried-pineapple “flowers,” the cupcake variation makes a beautiful presentation for Mother’s Day. To give the flowers a cupped shape (shown opposite), cool them in muffin tins as described on page 323 (instead of on a wire rack, shown below).

A refreshing chocolate-and-mint cocktail was the inspiration for grasshopper pie, a favorite of Southern hostesses in the 1950s and ’60s. It’s just as appealing today, and its green palette makes it a fun and festive choice for a St. Patrick’s Day celebration. To make the pie, a crème de menthe concoction is whipped into a cloud of nearly weightless filling and chilled in a chocolate wafer shell. Each slice is topped with whipped cream and chocolate shavings. This recipe has been updated from the original one, with fresh mint in the filling and shredded sweetened coconut in the crust.

Although countless theories exist to explain the name “chess pie,” not one is considered definitive. Whatever its origin, the pantry pie relies primarily on sugar, eggs, and butter for its deceptively complex filling. Here, the traditional dessert is reinterpreted as a more modern-looking tart. An easy crumb crust made from store-bought vanilla wafers replaces the standard rolled-out pie dough, and is baked in a fluted tart ring instead of a pie plate. In testing the recipe, our editors found that Nilla wafers worked better than other brands. The filling is thickened with fine cornmeal; during baking, it forms a thin crust on top, which, when sliced, reveals a creamy golden custard. This version just might become a classic in its own right.

In dessert making, sweet potatoes are best known as the filling for a rich, dense, single-crust Southern pie. Yet they become surprisingly light when baked in a soufflé. Here, layers of paper-thin phyllo dough overlap to form a crisp pie shell, which stands tall as the filling cools and sinks (this is one soufflé that’s supposed to fall).