New England

We always had this coffeecake for birthday breakfasts and other special occasions. Even when we lived far away from Maine, the smell brought us back to Bar Harbor.

To me, this is the most authentic and most important recipe in this book. It is the gold standard for chowder: a hearty main course with deep flavors, luxurious texture, and generous chunks of fish, onion, and potato. New England Fish Chowder is easy to make, uses simple ingredients, and doesn't require you to be fussy or exact. After making this chowder a few times, you will begin to understand the Zen of chowder.

Maple syrup in the corn bread adds a touch of New England to this traditional stuffing. The leftover bread is also nice with scrambled eggs or omelets.

Another name for this kind of creamy caramel fudge is penuche ("puh-noo-chee"), derived from panocha, a Mexican raw sugar. We think the texture of this one is most unusual: the combination of confectioners' sugar and brown sugar results in a particularly smooth, lush, velvety quality. We adapted a recipe from Pinkie's Bakery, in Souris, Prince Edward Island; the writer Marialisa Calta brought it back from a trip to the Canadian Maritimes.

Because they were so abundant, oysters were used as a filler and for flavor in a variety of Colonial New England dishes. They are still the star of traditional stuffings in the region.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

It's hard to get consensus on the definition of scrod. According to well-known Boston chef Jasper White, most New Englanders would agree that it's baby cod weighing under two pounds. However, some say that baby haddock and pollack are acceptable. Others contend that the kind of fish isn't important, but the manner of preparation is: If it's not broiled with the breadcrumbs, it's just baby cod. The Parker House hotel in Boston claims to have invented the dish. Here's our rendition; we serve it with broiled tomatoes.

Vermont's maple sugaring season is in early spring, and Vermont Grade B maple syrup-which has a more pronounced flavor than Grade A-is available by mail order in quart-size containers from Highland Sugarworks, Websterville, VT, tel. (800) 452-4012.

(Tomato Cheddar Sauce on Toast) This rendition of Welsh rabbit, popular in early New England, was probably brought to America from Cheshire. Because the recipe substitutes tomatoes for the beer often used, it was considered suitable for children and invalids. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

In early spring, colonists would tap into sugar maple trees to draw off the smoky-sweet syrup, which was a substitute for expensive imported sugar. Here, the syrup is brushed onto the turkey to add a deep golden finish. New Englanders liked their gravies rich and dark, and often kept a box of browned or "scorched" flour on hand to aid in browning, as well as flavoring and thickening. This delectable gravy borrows that technique. Be sure to start the gravy early in the day. Watch how to prepare and carve your bird with our streaming video demonstration.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Many New England restaurants offer Grape-Nuts pudding for dessert, and several of the best ice-cream parlors make Grape-Nuts ice cream. The crunchy cereal becomes a soft savory note in sweet vanilla-flavored cream.

Laura Trevino of Washington, D.C., writes: "This hearty chowder is the perfect thing for a chilly evening. Serve it with dark beer and crusty bread or oyster crackers."

Great served warm or at room temperature, this moist, delicious steamed bread can be made in a single loaf pan or in two empty, clean 28-ounce food cans. Offer softened butter or cream cheese alongside.