Latin American

Colombia may be the best kept barbecue secret in South America. Sure, Argentina gets the attention for its cowboy-style asado. And Brazil has enjoyed spectacular success exporting its rodizio-style restaurants—the kind where the waiters parade spits of grilled meats through the dining room. But Colombia? I doubt that most North Americans could name a single Colombian grilled dish. Well, it's time to shine the spotlight on the only country in South America to have coasts on both the Atlantic and the Pacific, whose cool-weather ranching district produces well-marbled, full-flavored beef, whose grill masters make extensive use of marinades (unlike the simplicity prized by their Argentine counterparts), and whose mastery of the art of grilling on charcoal extends to some unique techniques. Here's a not-so simple flank steak redolent of cumin, green onions, and beer.

his Colombian version of guacamole is smoother than most Mexican guacamoles, and it's used as a sauce for grilled meats, not just as a dip for tortilla chips.
This recipe originally accompanied Beer-Marinated Flank Steak with Aji and Guacamole .

This recipe originally accompanied Baja Fish Tacos .

This recipe originally accompanied Baja Fish Tacos .

It's not a real party without chocolate! Savor this sweet treat and you'll get 20 percent of your daily calcium.

The beans need to soak overnight, so be sure to start this recipe one day ahead.

In this impressive main course, sautéed scallops and shrimp are paired with a vibrant sweet-savory salsa. Serve the seafood and the side dishes with warm corn or flour tortillas.

Street vendors throughout Mexico's beach towns sell cold fresh fruit served in a plastic bag with bits of ice in it to keep the fruit chilled. This dessert is as take on that, as well as a refreshing end to any meal. Feel free to experiment by pouring a bit of tequila over the ice to create an instant margarita.

Tinga de Puerco Pork shoulder is a humble cut of meat, but it packs a lot of flavor. Here it is simmered with a chipotle-spiked tomato sauce to make a smoky-spicy topping for crisp little tortilla chips. They can be served on a plate as a first course or passed on a tray as a nibble with cocktails or beer. Tinga is also very good as a filling for warm corn smoked Spanish sausage.

Poblanos Rellenos con Papas y Aguacate What a wonderful dish this is, full of unexpected flavors and textures. Roasted poblano chiles are stuffed with mashed potatoes and avocados, then marinated in a sweet-and-sour mixture seasoned with roasted garlic.

I really love this soup. The flavors will remind you of corn chowder, but the texture is much lighter. The soup is bright and fresh and can be made year-round since it tastes just as good when using frozen corn as it does when using fresh.

Ensalada de Nopales Do not be afraid of this salad. Nopales (cactus leaves) are quite delicious and may remind you of green beans or okra. In fact, you could make this salad with green beans perfectly well. But do try the nopales if you never have—you may discover a new favorite vegetable. You will find canned nopales at Latino markets, but fresh ones are much better.

This layered dessert gets its name, volador, from the way the edges of the pastry "fly up" as they bake. The combination of thin, crackly pastry with creamy dulce de leche is unbeatable in its simplicity. Don't worry if the torte doesn't slice neatly—it's meant to be an informal dessert, the kind that invites guests to swipe crumbs from the serving platter and dip them into stray puddles of dulce de leche. It's too good to let a single bite go to waste.

Anticuchos are skewers of meat (traditionally beef hearts) or fish that are marinated in vinegar and a paste of ají panca, a Peruvian chile with a deep, woodsy spice. These savory morsels are easy to eat and easier to love, so it's no surprise that they are a popular street food all over the country. Their bite-size nature also makes them a fine appetizer. Here, flatiron steak takes the place of beef hearts; that more accessible cut has a robust flavor that stands up well to the bold marinade and the heat of the grill.

Comfort food, Peruvian style. The chile sauce's brilliant yellow hue comes from a pinch of turmeric, as well as bottled ají amarillo paste, which also lends a fruity heat. It is thickened with bread and walnuts (a tasty trick for stretching foods to feed many mouths) and blended to a satiny smoothness. Although Peruvian cooks usually shred the chicken and add it directly to the sauce, we like the elegance of serving the roast chicken breasts on top of the sauce and passing extra around in a gravy boat.

Potatoes are a cornerstone of the Peruvian diet, and for good reason: They have been cultivated in the Andes for more than 8,000 years, and the country boasts a whopping 3,000 varieties of the tuber, which comes in a myriad of shapes, colors, and sizes. In the regional capital of Huancayo, creamy, gently spiced cheese sauce is usually poured over the potatoes or served as a dip. To really highlight the potatoes (purple-fleshed ones look especially dramatic), we serve them over the sauce, with accompaniments of lime and meaty olives.

Versions of this casual dish are found throughout Peru, often crowned with a steak and a fried egg. Cooks flip the mixture of beans and rice frequently while it fries so that the exterior develops a crisp, browned crust. We've simplified the technique, but have no fear— you will still end up with lots of delectable crunchy bits. Although it is served here as a side dish, tacu tacu also makes a satisfying vegetarian supper alongside a green salad.

In a country known for its fascinating, wide-ranging cuisine, ceviche just may be Peru's national dish. Combinations of sparklingly fresh raw fish marinated in a piquant dressing (often made with ají amarillo and lime juice) are served everywhere, from the lowliest fish shacks to the finest restaurants. For food-safety reasons, we choose to gently poach the scallops, but otherwise, this version, accented by tender sweet-potato cubes, chewy kernels of choclo (a type of Andean corn), and red bell pepper, is entirely classic. Don't forget to drink up the delicious liquid that remains after the ceviche has been eaten. Peruvians prize this leche de tigre as a hangover cure.

Pisco, a potent brandy distilled from grapes, is made in Peru and Chile, and each country claims the Pisco Sour—recognizable by its distinctive foamy head (from egg white) and tart lime flavor—as its own. A swirl of fresh pineapple juice boosts the tropical vibe.

Indigenous to the Andes, quinoa was called the mother grain by the Incas, who considered the plant sacred. And while much has been made of quinoa's nutritional properties, its fluffy texture and nuttiness in this recipe are a revelation. Because it comes together quickly and is full of bright flavors, this salad is sure to become a summer staple. It's worth seeking out the fresh hearts of palm, which have a vibrant snap, but if you cannot find them, do not substitute canned; instead, use chayote (see cooks’ note, below).