Latin American

These are not the empanadas I grew up with, and until my Argentinean friend Lorena came over one day and made them with me, I would never have considered combining beef with olives and egg whites—but I took one taste and was hooked. Each bite offers an exciting combination of flavors and textures. The secret is that a little cube of Manchego, a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese, is nestled into the center of each empanada. When the empanadas are baked or fried, the cheese melts and adds a subtle creaminess, the source of which is elusive to anyone who didn’t see you put in the cheese. Empanada dough disks can be found in the frozen section of many grocery stores or Latin markets. They are made with regular shortening dough or puff pastry; either works beautifully for this recipe. These empanadas are amazing when deep-fried, but they’re also really delicious when simply baked; directions for both are below. Read more about deep-frying on page 37.

Growing up in the beach town of Corpus Christi, I spent many long hours shrimping, crabbing, and fishing with my dad. I remember my mom frequently asking him, “How on earth am I going to cook all of this?” One way she coped was regular “you-peel-’em” nights, when she would put a couple of enormous bowls of hot, steamed shrimp on the table with many small dishes of Tabasco-infused cocktail sauce. My dad, sisters, and I would happily stay at that table until every bowl was empty. In Mexico they have their own way of coping with abundant shrimp. No matter where you go, you will find a variation of this traditional appetizer, which is one of my dad’s favorite dishes. He loves Tabasco so much that he usually uses double the amount here! Sweet shrimp and velvety avocado temper the heat of the tangy cocktail sauce. Even if you don’t like it as spicy as my dad does, it should definitely have a little kick. Mexican shrimp cocktail is typically served out of individual small dishes—I like cocktail glasses—and eaten with a spoon.

I frequently have friends over to play games at my house, and it’s become a game night tradition that I put out heaping bowls of Pico de Gallo and guacamole along with a big basket of tortilla chips. Pico de Gallo improves with time and I serve it with chips, of course, but also spooned over any red meat, in tacos, or with scrambled eggs for huevos rancheros. For an extra chunky salsa, simply mix all the ingredients together without pureeing. Whatever texture you prefer, the burst of fresh flavor this salsa offers depends on using ripe, in-season tomatoes and lime—never lemon—juice. For a spicier salsa, leave some or all of the seeds in the serrano peppers.

Among all the dishes I make, this one is definitely a favorite. This is why the batch is so big—no one can stop eating it! I have a few tricks that give my guacamole great flavor and texture. First and most important, I use lemon, not lime, juice. Lemon has a little sweetness that brings out all the other flavors. Also key is that I never skimp on the lemon or the kosher salt. I sometimes laugh that I basically make a salty lemonade for the avocado and other ingredients to swim in—trust me, it makes all the difference! Serrano peppers give it a great kick, much better than jalapeños. And finally, never stir as you add each ingredient to the bowl or the guacamole will become too watery. This is especially beautiful served in a dish that shows off the guacamole’s green, white, and red, such as a molcajete—a Mexican mortar and pestle—or a bright and fun serving bowl. Serve with tortilla chips for an appetizer or on top of steak, such as in Chili-Rubbed Skirt Steak Tacos (page 102).

On the few nights that he is not at Lantern, Miguel cooks Mexican at home. He has not seen his family since moving to North Carolina in 1999, and the goal of his home cooking is to make his dishes taste as close to his mother’s and grandmother’s as possible with the ingredients he can get here. He thinks that he is getting close with these carnitas.

Elote—roasted corn on the cob spiked with salty cheese, creamy mayo, lime, and chile powder—is traditional Mexican street food, slightly exotic but homey enough to anyone who has scarfed roast corn at a state fair. It’s also solid party food: guests can garnish their own, and because the pulled-down husk is used as a handle, it can easily be eaten standing up. Cotija cheese, widely available in supermarkets and Mexican tiendas, is a crumbly aged cow’s-milk cheese, weirdly similar to both feta and Parmesan, and either can be substituted here.

This is the hot sauce we make regularly at the restaurant to ladle over burritos, enchiladas, tostadas, casseroles, and stuffed vegetables. Cooking the onions and peppers quickly on high heat brings out flavor with less simmering time.

Make your own custom-made Chili Powder that reflects your flavor preferences and is free of unwanted ingredients, such as dried garlic and anticaking agents. After you’ve used this basic blend, adjust the recipe to fit your taste.

Pickled onions such as these are most often used as a garnish for tacos, burritos, and guacamole in Mexican cuisine. I think they are just as delicious on most of the burgers in this book, and they add a level of intrigue that raw onion slices could never do. The fresh lime juice is essential for its fresh, clean flavor as well as its acidity. If you want to pump up the volume on flavor and add a bit of heat, try adding a few whole jalapeño or serrano chiles to the mix.

Oaxaca is a state in southern Mexico with a diverse and celebrated regional cuisine. One of Oaxaca’s best-known specialties is mole, a classic Mexican sauce that combines onions, tomatoes, chiles, fried corn tortillas, and often chocolate, which adds a rich, not sweet, deep note to the sauce. Traditionally, mole is time-consuming to make and involves many separate cooking techniques. This version is just as tasty as the original but is quick and easy to prepare. Tangy crumbled queso fresco, creamy slices of avocado, and pickled red onions provide the authentically Mexican finishing touches.

Argentineans are well-known for their beef and for their love of the grill. Just about everything that comes off of the Argentinean grill is garnished with chimichurri, a bright herbaceous mixture of fresh parsley, garlic, red wine vinegar, and olive oil. It could very well be the national condiment. Knowing what an affinity grilled meats and chimichurri have for one another, it makes sense that a burger would benefit from a dose of vibrant chimichurri as well. Rings of deep red onion and slices of slightly salty Manchego cheese finish the burger to perfection.

Make this creamy potato salad wild or mild, depending on your family’s preference. Starting with already-cooked Roasted Red and White Potatoes (page 278) cuts your time in the kitchen to almost nothing!

Capture the traditional flavors of huevos rancheros with this any-time-of-day casserole. You can make it and bake it right away or prepare it ahead of time and bake it the next day.

When making salads at home, make sure your lettuce is well dried. Here, also be sure the salsa or pico de gallo is completely drained of extra moisture by quickly throwing it in a fine sieve and then gently pressing it with a spoon. Eliminating moisture from the ingredients ensures the finished salad isn’t watery. Well-dried ingredients yield a restaurant-quality (or better!) salad. To make this dish even more special, add low-fat cheese or fresh cilantro.