African

Literally "top of the shop," ras el hanout is a Moroccan spice blend that can contain more than 20 ingredients. This streamlined version includes the main spices of the traditional mixture.

These bean fritters appear in several West African countries; they are called akara in Nigeria and Sierra Leone and akla or koosé in Ghana. Although eaten as a snack or side dish, bean fritters are also consumed as breakfast food with hot sauce as an accompaniment (it's more like a thick relish than a sauce). We think the fritters are great as an hors d'oeuvre. Although we use vegetable oil for frying in our recipe, red palm oil is the preferred frying medium in Africa. And traditionally the black-eyed peas are skinned, but we think you get more bean flavor if you leave the skins on (and save a lot of time as well).

I came across this amusing recipe in an old South African cookbook and could not resist the name. Not only are two kinds of white wine plus some brandy called for, but the drier wine that is used for a marinade is thrown away, testimony to the abundance of wine in the fertile Cape province. The chicken roasts surprisingly fast in less than an hour, turning to an even, glowing brown — indeed, my only caution is to avoid letting it color too much. The pearl barley, prune, and apricot pilaf is an appetizing brown, too, studded with the rich colors of the fruit. If you want to work ahead, the pilaf keeps well for several days in the refrigerator, but the chicken is best freshly roasted just before it is served. Wine for Cooking South Africa's recent political renaissance has prompted the reappearance of its wines in American markets at very attractive prices. For the marinade, any dry white will do but, for authenticity's sake, it would be fun to start with a South African wine, perhaps a Cape riesling. For the sauce, a luscious sweet white is needed and a muscat from the Constantia or Robertson district would be ideal. Wine to Drink Sticking to the South African theme at the table, I would suggest a sauvignon blanc or a chardonnay from Stellenbosch, one with sufficient fruit to match the muscat in the sauce and the prunes and apricots in the pearl barley.

Roast some cherry tomatoes and eggplant cubes alongside the lamb, and perk up instant couscous with fresh herbs for an easy addition. To complete the dinner, top poached or canned apricot halves with vanilla yogurt and chopped pistachios.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Since this exotic dish has a very flavorful sauce, serve it with couscous or rice.

Here's an easy spice rub that adds lots of flavor but not fat. It's also great with salmon or fresh tuna steaks.

This dish is even better served over couscous.

Mrouzia Mrouzia is a dish traditionally made after the celebration of Aid el Kebir ("Feast of the Slaughter of the Lamb"), an occasion when, historically, a family would have large amounts of meat on hand. In the days before refrigeration, the lamb was cooked in copious amounts of fat and spices to preserve it. Don't worry — this version has much less butter and less intense spicing than the original. Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 3 hr

Adobo means spice rub or marinade, and this particular recipe was introduced by African slaves and brought to Bahía in Brazil in the 17th century. I think that it gives tuna a new and exciting dimension. There is spiciness in the dish, as would be expected from an adobo. To provide the American palate a little relief from the heat, the tuna is served on a bed of lightly pickled cucumbers.

Start marinating the chicken four to six hours ahead. Pour frosty Pilsners or a chilled Chenin Blanc.

Berbere is a chile and spice blend used to season many Ethiopian dishes. Because authentic berbere can be hard to find, we developed our own recipe. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 15 min

In Egypt, eggplant was roasted over hot coals until the skin was charred. At home, I char the eggplant directly over the gas flame, turning frequently with tongs until the juices begin to ooze out. It can also be baked in a 425°F oven for 30 minutes.

Kathy Lee, Valley Center, Calif.
If you can't find a package of thighs at the market, buy whole chickens. You (or the butcher) can cut up the chickens and freeze the leftover pieces for another use.

Chinese bean thread noodles (also called cellophane noodles) are often used in Moroccan dishes, like this starter. Their use stems from the influence of a small Vietnamese community in North Africa.

This thick, spicy sauce is typically used in Moroccan dishes. Use it as an accompaniment for Shrimp Phyllo Purses with Tomato Chermoula Sauce.

This poultry dish features many of the flavors of the classic Moroccan dish b'stilla but is much easier to make.

It's believed that this stew — called mafé or maafe — originated among the Bambara people of Mali. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr