Ruth Cousineau
Ruth Cousineau was the Test Kitchen director for Gourmet from 2006 until the magazine shut its doors in 2009. Formerly a corporate chef, then a pastry chef, Cousineau ran a restaurant in Vermont before joining the team at that venerable publication. She also developed and tested recipes for Woman’s Day, Redbook, and Family Circle. Her book, The Tomato Imperative, was a James Beard Award nominee. She resides in Vermont, where she works as a freelance chef and food consultant.
Pear and Almond Tart
Eau-de-vie, or fruit brandy, an Alsatian specialty, is used to great effect in this dish, bringing out the subtle nuances in the pears. A custardy, brandied layer over the tender fruit, along with a nutty topping, gives this tart a complex yet homey air.
Red and White Endive Salad
This salad shows how bitterness, punctuated with a zingy vinaigrette, can be supremely refreshing.
Chicken in Riesling
Though coq au vin made with red wine is perhaps the best-known incarnation of the French dish in this country, most regions of France have unique versions that take advantage of local wines. Alsace's dry Riesling lends a gentle richness to this creamy, comforting meal.
Trout Choucroute
This dish takes the best of traditional choucroute garni—smoked pork married to sauerkraut that's had its bite removed by being simmered in wine with bay and juniper—and lightens it up, pairing it with another Alsatian favorite, trout, and transforming a stick-to-the-ribs dish into something fit for a first course. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how the slight acidity of the kraut and the smokiness of the bacon play up, rather than dominate, the fish's clean flavor.
Apple Cobbler
Like a classic tarte Tatin, this cobbler begins with apples being caramelized in a rich mix of butter and sugar, but we've upped the ante by adding apple brandy and raisins. Tender biscuit rounds take the place of traditional pastry to create a true home-style dessert. (And a drizzle of cream never hurts.)
Pear Maple Johnnycake
Looking for a fast weeknight dessert? Johnnycake—essentially a cross between a pancake and corn bread—isn't fancy, but it's delicious when made with delicate pears and maple syrup.
Prunes in Wine with Toasted-Almond Cookies
Prunes take on a velvety texture in this Port sauce. The resulting syrup is silky and sweet, with a tropical vanilla fragrance.
Orange Tapioca Pudding
The unique texture of tapioca—creamy pudding studded with soft, slightly chewy pearls—inspires intense devotion among fans. This version gets lively citrus flavor from four incarnations of orange: zest, juice, liqueur, and fresh pieces of the fruit.
Banana Chocolate Walnut Cake
A great way to use very ripe bananas, this easy-to-make cake incorporates everything you love about banana bread and adds a few more favorites—chocolate, walnuts, and cinnamon—for good measure. (It's also much more tender, with a light, moist crumb.)
Cauliflower and Feta Omelet
Little bites of cauliflower add wonderful texture to this open-face omelet; salty-tangy feta gives it character.
Thai-Style Beef with Noodles
Don't be intimidated. This is actually just a Southeast Asian twist on beef-noodle soup: steak, fragrant broth, and eminently slurpable noodles.
Chunky Potato Soup with Dill
This potato soup recipe was brought over from Poland by test kitchen director Ruth Cousineau's grandmother.
Vietnamese Chicken Sandwich (Banh Mi)
Despite the exotic name of this sandwich, you can get all the ingredients right at the supermarket. Liverwurst stands in for the traditional pork-pâté filling—the meatiness works beautifully with the sharp-flavored vegetables and fresh cilantro.
Swiss Chard with Raisins and Almonds
Toasted almonds contrast beautifully with sweet, tender raisins and earthy chard.
Roasted Halibut with Garlic Sauce
A super-quick take on aioli, this garlicky sauce keeps the fish incredibly moist.
Double Chocolate Pudding Parfait
An extra dose of decadent chocolate gives this classic layered dessert new life.
Dried-Apple Stack Cakes
This winter dessert is based on traditional stack-cake recipes from Appalachia. Small layers (baked in muffin tins) are sandwiched together with a jamlike apple filling to create individual desserts that are unlike any cake you've come across.