David Ruggerio

Most self-respecting Italian-American cooks have a recipe for stuffed zucchini. It's a dish that's often hard to categorize, however. Is it an appetizer? A side dish? Can it function as a main course? This version, with veal, is a little heartier than most and can definitely be served as an entrée, but it can also function as a side dish or appetizer for a multicourse feast.

Auruduci is the Sicilian way of saying agro-dolce, or "sweet-and-sour." This is definitely not the type of sweet-and-sour dish you find in Chinese restaurants. It is a wonderful, subtle recipe that shows off the number one fish in Sicily — tuna. This could be my favorite of the many Sicilian tuna recipes I've encountered over the years. You have to make it with fresh tuna, and always remember to serve it rare — never overcook it.