Braised meats are ideal for any large gathering because much of the work can be done the day before. In my opinion, braises actually taste better when the flavors have had time to meld and develop. And in the braising process, not only have you cooked the meat, you’ve also created a sauce. Osso buco is a classic braised dish of northern Italy, usually garnished with gremolata, a popular condiment made of minced lemon zest, parsley, and garlic. That’s fine in the winter, but in spring, I like to add two of my favorite spring ingredients: peas and pea shoots. It’s a brighter rendition of the traditional preparation. The risotto, perfumed with saffron, is the perfect starch for spooning up with the braising juices. I’m usually pro-cheese, but in the case of this risotto I find myself torn. Though the Parmesan gives the risotto richness, without it the dish is a little lighter and “more of the season.” You decide.
Ingredients
Saffron Risotto
Preparation
Step 1
Season the veal shanks with the garlic, lemon zest, 1 tablespoon thyme, and rosemary. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.
Step 2
Take the veal shanks out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking, to bring them to room temperature. After 30 minutes, season the shanks on all sides with 3 tablespoons salt and 2 teaspoons pepper. Reserve the garlic and any excess herbs.
Step 3
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Step 4
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 3 minutes. Pour in the olive oil and wait a minute or two, until the pan is very hot, almost smoking. Place the shanks in the pot, and sear until caramelized and nicely browned on all sides. Depending on the size of your pan, you will probably have to sear the meat in batches. (Do not crowd the meat or get lazy or rushed with this step. It’s very important that the meat sear to a deep golden brown on all sides; this will take a good 15 to 20 minutes.) When the shanks are nicely browned, transfer them to a braising pan. They should sit flat, bones standing up, in one layer.
Step 5
Turn the heat down to medium, and add the onion, carrot, celery, sage sprigs, and reserved garlic and herbs. Stir with a wooden spoon to scrape up all the crusty bits in the pan. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables just begin to caramelize. Stir in the tomatoes and cook a few more minutes. Add the vermouth, turn the heat to high, and reduce the liquid by half.
Step 6
Add the stock and bring to a boil. Pour the liquid over the shanks, scraping any of the vegetables that fall on the meat back into the liquid. The stock mixture should almost cover the shanks (if not, add a little more stock or water). Tuck the parsley sprigs in the broth around the shanks. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and a tight-fitting lid if you have one. Braise in the oven about 3 hours.
Step 7
To check the meat for doneness, carefully remove the lid and foil (watch out for the hot steam), and pierce one of the shanks with a paring knife. When the meat is done, it will yield easily. Taste a piece if you are not sure.
Step 8
Turn the oven up to 400°F.
Step 9
Carefully transfer the veal shanks to a baking sheet and return them to the oven to brown 10 to 15 minutes.
Step 10
Strain the broth into a saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables with a ladle to extract all the juices. Skim the fat from the braising juices. If necessary, reduce the broth over medium-high heat about 5 minutes, to thicken slightly. Taste for seasoning.
Step 11
Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the butter, and when it foams, add the peas. Turn the heat down to low, and sauté the peas gently about 3 minutes, shaking the pan a few times. Add the shallots, 1 teaspoon thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Step 12
Stir to combine, and cook a few minutes, until the shallots are soft and translucent.
Step 13
Add 1/2 cup water and turn the heat up to medium. Cook a minute or so, until the peas are just tender. Turn off the heat and toss in the pea shoots.
Step 14
Arrange the veal shanks on a large warm platter. Ladle lots of the braising juices over the meat. Spoon the sauté of peas and pea shoots on top. Serve a bowl of saffron risotto and the remaining braising juices on the side.
Saffron Risotto
Step 15
Toast the saffron threads in a small pan over medium heat, just until they dry and become brittle. Pound the saffron in a mortar to a fine powder. Add half the butter, and use a rubber spatula to incorporate it.
Step 16
Bring the chicken stock and 3 1/2 cups water to a boil over high heat. Turn off the heat.
Step 17
Meanwhile, heat a medium heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in the saffron butter, and when it foams, add the onion, thyme, chile, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a few grindings of black pepper. Sauté about 5 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is translucent. Stir in the rice and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Cook about 2 minutes, stirring continuously, until the rice just begins to toast and the grains of rice have a white dot at their center.
Step 18
Pour in the white wine, and once it has evaporated, quickly add 1 cup of the hot stock and stir continuously. When the stock is completely absorbed, begin adding the liquid in 1 cup batches, stirring all the time, with a wooden spoon, back and forth in a rhythmic motion. Wait for each batch of liquid to be absorbed before adding the next. The rice should be bubbling and quickly absorbing the liquid. After about 15 minutes, taste the rice for tenderness. It should be slightly but not too al dente. The risotto may need more liquid and more time, so keep cooking until it’s done. It should be neither soupy nor dry; each grain of rice should be coated in a flavorful starchy “sauce.”
Step 19
When the rice is almost done, turn off the heat. Let the risotto “rest” for a minute or two, then quickly stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and the parsley (and Parmigiano-Reggiano if you are using it). Taste for seasoning. The rice will keep absorbing liquid, so add a little more stock if it seems dry. Spoon the risotto into a serving bowl.
Note
Step 20
You can braise the veal shanks a day or two ahead of time; just remember they need to marinate a full day beforehand. Bring the cooked meat to room temperature and then gently reheat it, covered, in the broth. Start the risotto after you take the veal out of the oven the first time (or after you have reheated it) and strain the braising juices. After the risotto has been cooking about 10 minutes, put the shanks in the oven to brown. Recruit a friend to help you by preparing the sauté of peas and pea shoots while you finish the risotto.
