Swedish Rye
What makes this version of rye different from the more popular German and deli ryes is the use of licorice-flavored aniseeds and fennel seeds, along with orange peel and a touch of cardamom. Nutritionists are now quantifying the therapeutic benefits of orange peel, licorice-flavored spices, and bitters as digestive aids that various traditional cultures have espoused for centuries. By making the bread with a combination of wild-yeast starter and commercial yeast, this formula creates an even more complexly flavored version of the bread than the more customary versions leavened only by commercial yeast. The lactic acid not only conditions the flour, predigesting it to an extent, but it also gives it a longer shelf life and better flavor. Think of this bread as a baked version of anisette.
Recipe information
Yield
makes two 1-pound loaves or 1 large loaf
Ingredients
Sponge
Dough
Preparation
Step 1
The day before making the bread, make the sponge. Combine the water, molasses, orange peel, aniseeds, fennel seeds, and cardamom in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and then turn off the heat. Cool to lukewarm. Stir in the barm and rye flour until the flour is fully hydrated and evenly distributed. This should make a thick sponge. Cover with plastic wrap and ferment at room temperature for 4 hours, or until the mixture becomes foamy. Refrigerate overnight.
Step 2
The next day, remove the sponge from the refrigerator 1 hour before making the bread dough to take off the chill.
Step 3
To make the dough, in a 4-quart mixing bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer), stir together the flour, yeast, salt, and brown sugar. Add the sponge and the melted shortening. Mix with a large metal spoon (or on low speed for 1 minute with the paddle attachment) until the dough forms a ball. Sprinkle flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin kneading (or mix on medium speed with the dough hook) for approximately 4 minutes. Adjust with additional high-gluten (not rye) flour, if needed. The dough should be slightly tacky but not sticky. Do not overknead, as the rye flour will become gummy. The entire kneading or mixing process should be completed within 6 minutes. The dough should pass the windowpane test (page 58) and register 77° to 81°F. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.
Step 4
Ferment at room temperature for about 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.
Step 5
Remove the dough from the bowl and knead for 1 minute to degas. Divide the dough in half for 1-pound loaves (or leave intact for a 2-pound loaf). Shape the dough into sandwich loaves (page 81) or bâtards (page 73) for freestanding loaves. Lightly oil two 8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch pans or one 9 by 5-inch pan; for freestanding loaves, line a large sheet pan with baking parchment and sprinkle with cornmeal or semolina flour. Transfer the loaves to the pan(s) and score the top of the loaves with 3 parallel slashes as shown on page 90. Mist the loaves with spray oil and cover loosely with plastic wrap or a food-grade plastic bag.
Step 6
Proof at room temperature for approximately 90 minutes, or until the dough crests 1 inch above the bread pans at the center, or rises 1 1/2 times its original size for freestanding loaves.
Step 7
Preheat the oven to 350°F. For freestanding loaves, brush the egg wash over the surface of the dough just prior to baking. This is optional for loaf-pan breads.
Step 8
Bake for 20 minutes, then rotate the pan(s) 180 degrees for even baking. Continue to bake for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the loaves. They should register 190°F in the center, be a light golden brown, and make a hollow sound when thumped on the bottom. If the sides are still white or soft, return the bread to the oven to finish.
Step 9
When the loaves are finished baking, immediately remove them from the pans and cool on a rack for at least 1 hour before slicing or serving.
BREAD PROFILE
Step 10
Enriched, standard dough; indirect method; commercial yeast
DAYS TO MAKE: 2
Step 11
Day 1: 4 hours sponge
Step 12
Day 2: 1 hour to de-chill sponge; 6 minutes mixing; 3 1/2 hours fermentation, shaping, and proofing; 35 to 50 minutes baking
Commentary
Step 13
By being scored before the final proofing the breads take on a different look than when scored just prior to baking, as is customary for most breads. The cuts fill in during the rising period and spread out. When the bread bakes, it seems as if the cuts have healed, leaving behind a different shade of crust where the cuts were made.
BAKER’S PERCENTAGE FORMULA
Step 14
Swedish Rye: Limpa %
Step 15
(SPONGE)
Step 16
Water: 43.1%
Step 17
Molasses: 10.8%
Step 18
Orange peel: 2%
Step 19
Seeds and spices: 2%
Step 20
Barm: 43.1%
Step 21
White rye flour: 30.8%
Step 22
(DOUGH)
Step 23
High-gluten flour: 69.2%
Step 24
Instant yeast: 1.4%
Step 25
Salt: 2.3%
Step 26
Brown sugar: 13.8%
Step 27
Shortening: 6.2%
Step 28
Total: 224.7%
