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Shrimp or Crayfish Clemenceau

I’m not sure what the connection is between this old New Orleans favorite and the French politician—perhaps it was created when he visited the city—but whatever the reason, it is an enduring part of the Creole repertoire. The potatoes are most often deep-fried to a light golden brown (a preparation known as “brabant potatoes”) before joining the other ingredients in the pan, but it works just as well to blanch them in water, then crisp them. This makes a tasty complete meal when paired with a ripe tomato salad or a platter of crudités.

Cooks' Note

The potatoes can be blanched in advance and held in water. This dish is best served as soon as it's made (it gets a little soggy, and the peas will shrivel, if it sits too long).

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 4 servings

Ingredients

1 cup diced potatoes (about 1/2-inch dice)
Salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
5 tablespoons butter
1/2 pound button mushrooms, quartered
1 pound shrimp (16-20 count), peeled and deveined, or 1 pound crayfish tails
2 cups peas (frozen or fresh) or cut-up sugar snaps or snow peas (blanched)
Pepper
Hot sauce
1 medium shallot, finely diced
3/4 cup white wine
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 scallions, finely chopped

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat the oven to 325°F.

    Step 2

    Place the potatoes in a small saucepan and cover with cold water; add a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are just cooked through (they will become opaque and should be tender, but not overly soft, when pierced with a paring knife). Drain them, rinse with cold water, and cool. Pat the dice dry with paper towels.

    Step 3

    Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet until hot but not smoking, and add the potatoes and 2 tablespoons butter. Cook until evenly browned and crispy, and transfer to a large bowl. Keep them warm in the oven.

    Step 4

    Return the skillet to the heat (no need to clean), pour in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they are lightly browned and crispy. Add the mushrooms to the potatoes. Add the shrimp or crayfish tails to the skillet and cook a few more minutes. Add the peas, season lightly with salt, pepper, and hot sauce, and transfer the mixture to the bowl of potatoes. Toss mixture to combine and return to oven to keep warm. Deglaze the pan with the shallots, wine, and lemon juice and scrape up the bits. Bring to a boil and reduce to about 4 tablespoons of liquid. Stir in the garlic, then whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons butter, a little at a time, to make a creamy sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and hot sauce.

    Step 5

    Pour the sauce over the shrimp, sprinkle with scallions, and serve immediately. Or divide among four plates, top with potatoes and scallions, and drizzle with sauce.

From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf. Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook. Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.
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