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Grossi’s Potatoes

In the early days at Lucques, Corina Weibel, my opening sous-chef, and I were the only two cooks in the kitchen on Sundays. After a hectic Saturday night, both of us looked forward to cooking in a tranquil kitchen on Sunday. During those afternoons, Corina loved to tell stories about her Swiss heritage and to reminisce about her grandmother’s cooking. When she described her grossi’s potatoes, a combination of crisp sautéed potatoes with a coating of crunchy breadcrumbs, I knew I would love them (starch plus starch!).

Ingredients

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (about 4 medium-sized)
7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, unpeeled and smashed
4 thyme sprigs, plus 1 tablespoon thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sliced flat-leaf parsley
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat the oven to 400°F.

    Step 2

    Toss the potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and 2 teaspoons salt. Place in a roasting pan, cover with aluminum foil, and roast about 50 minutes, until tender when pierced.

    Step 3

    Toss the breadcrumbs with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Spread them on a baking sheet and toast 8 to 10 minutes, stirring once or twice, until light golden brown.

    Step 4

    When the potatoes have cooled, peel them and cut them in half lengthwise. Place each half, cut side down, on a cutting board, and cut crosswise into five wedges.

    Step 5

    Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Pour in 2 tablespoons olive oil, swirl the pan, and wait 1 minute. Place the potato wedges carefully in the pan, cut side down. (It’s okay if they won’t all fit; you can add the stragglers later.) Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, the thyme leaves, and some pepper. Cook them about 8 minutes, until they are crispy on one side. Don’t try to move them or turn them if they are stuck to the pan; they will eventually release themselves if you’re patient!

    Step 6

    Now turn the potatoes over, and add any remaining potatoes to the pan with a tablespoon olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook another 8 minutes, scraping and tossing vigorously with a metal spatula (they don’t need to lie perfectly flat this time). Add the butter, and when it foams, sprinkle the breadcrumbs into the pan. Sauté, stirring continuously, 2 to 3 minutes, until the potatoes are deep golden brown and completely coated in the crumbs. You want to cook the potatoes and crumbs together as long as possible without letting the crumbs burn. Toss in the parsley, and taste for seasoning.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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