Cumin-Scented Lamb Loin
I lived in Morocco for a time in the mid-1970s studying textiles as part of my anthropology training. While there, I learned to cook with the full array of the expressive, aromatic spices of the Moroccan kitchen. Cumin is one of the most important and widely used of these spices, and I find that its pungent, woodsy aroma gives most meat dishes a “meatier” or “gamier” flavor that I like. Cumin is also widely used in Tex-Mex cooking for the same effect. This brine will work for up to double the amount of meat called for here. When making a brine, use a five-to-one ratio of sugar to salt, which works well for twenty-four-hour brines such as this one. For a North African accent, garnish the tacos with grated carrots, chopped fresh mint leaves, and quartered cherry tomatoes. Look for cinnamon oil in the baking and candy-making sections of well-stocked specialty food stores or online.
Recipe information
Yield
makes 8 tacos
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
To prepare the brine, in a large bowl, mix all ingredients except for the tenderloin, oil, tortillas, and garnish. Transfer the brine to a pan large and deep enough to hold the liquid and the meat. Trim the thin outer silver skin from the loin and place it in the brine, cover, and let the meat marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Using your hands, remove the lamb from the marinade, brush off any whole spices from the meat, and pat dry with paper towels.
Step 2
To cook the lamb, in a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Sear the meat on all sides, turning every 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, cooking to medium-rare (135°F), about 5 minutes total. For lamb loin, sear over medium-high heat 2 minutes per each of the four sides, cooking to medium-rare (135°F), 8 to 12 minutes total. Remove the lamb from the pan and let rest on a cutting board for 3 minutes. Slice the meat into thin medallions and serve immediately.
Step 3
To serve, lay the tortillas side by side, open face and overlapping on a platter. Divide the filling equally between the tortillas and top with pineapple and salsa. Grab, fold, and eat right away. Or build your own taco: lay a tortilla, open face, in one hand. Spoon on some filling, top with pineapple and salsa, fold, and eat right away.
